The present invention relates to a device and method of measurement for the fitting of bras. More generally the invention encompasses improvements relating to the sale, fitting and purchase of bras and measurement of bras, as well as related quality assurance techniques relating to bras.
The present invention relates to a device and method of measurement for the fitting of bras. More generally the invention encompasses improvements relating to the sale, fitting and purchase of bras and measurement of bras, as well as related quality assurance techniques relating to bras.
In this specification, the term xe2x80x98braxe2x80x99 will be used conveniently to encompass all clothing designed closely to fit a wearer""s breasts, thus including other forms of lingerie such as body suits, as well as swimwear and other sportswear such as leotards.
Bra fitting is bedevilled by variations in size, shape and disposition of the breasts, by the amorphous nature of the breasts themselves, and by the fact that many women are never measured for bra size, either professionally or otherwise. Nevertheless, when buying a bra, most women know from previous experience roughly the size that is required. This is always an approximation as changes occur to the size and shape of breasts at different times during the menstrual cycle and as the years progress. Also, substantial and often irreversible changes in breast size and shape can occur during and after pregnancy.
A typical way to chose a bra is either by choosing a favourite style or make, regardless of the accuracy of the fit, or to try on a selection of styles in a range of sizes and makes. In this way, best fit is ascertained by trial and error. Both processes take time, are dependent on available stock and do not always result in the purchase of a properly fitting bra. Often, when looking for a particular style, the style will have been discontinued or the appropriate size is out of stock. In this case, the consumer must resort to trial and error of other styles and/or makes or return to the retail outlet at a later date.
When choosing bras from mail order catalogues or via the Internet, the option of trying a bra for fit is much more restricted since, if the bra does not fit, it must be returned to the provider, usually by mail, and another choice made. If the consumer is unsure of the size she requires, it could take several attempts and much time and frustration before an appropriate bra is found. Alternatively, the consumer may order more than one bra with a view to returning the ones that are incorrect. This process wastes resources, especially for the retailer, who may have to repackage and redistribute the returned items.
The quest to find a correct fitting bra is further compounded by the problem that a lot of women fall in between available standard sizes and that the so-called standard sizes are not uniform between different makes and styles of bras. For example, a 34B bra supplied by one maker may provide an adequate fit in a particular style. However, a 34B in a similar style made by a different maker may provide a different, perhaps less good, fit.
The composition of a bra, such as its elastane or Lycra(copyright) content, together with additional features such as underwires, padding etc., also affect the fit of a bra and must be taken into account when choosing the correct size.
For women who are unsure of their size, some retail outlets provide a bra measuring service whereby measurements are taken either with or without a bra being worn. Apart from the advantage of obtaining expert advice or at least a second opinion as to fit, professional measuring services have many drawbacks. For example, if the measurement is taken with a bra on, there is the advantage that the breasts are supported but the resulting measurement may be inaccurate if the bra is not an accurate fit to start with. If the measurement is taken without a bra being worn, the measurement will also be inaccurate since the breasts are unsupported and therefore are of a different shape and volume compared to when they are supported.
The significance of support is that a breast is largely constituted of fatty tissue having a resiliently compressible, gelatinous consistency whose shape and volume will adapt to some extent to suit a receptacle such as a bra cup in which the breast is contained. When there is no such support, gravity will change both the shape and volume of the breast, obviously with increasing effect the greater the size and weight of the breast.
Even a professional measuring service is not immune from the drawback that the accuracy of breast and torso measurement for fitting a bra will usually depend on the level of training and experience of the person doing the measuring. It is also true that bra-fitting experts apply an element of subjectivity to their work. The aim of such experts is not to arrive at a universal bra size measurement that the user can apply with confidence to bras in general, but instead to fit the consumer to one of the bras available in stock, the purpose of measurement therefore being to select a limited range of bras that the user can try on and select from. As noted above, such trial and error is all well and good in a store environment if the consumer has the time and inclination to visit the store, but it does not suit the mail order and Internet shopping methods that many consumers increasingly prefer.
A further problem with professional measuring services is that many women feel uncomfortable about being measured in a semi-naked state by a stranger. As a result, the measurement/fitting may be hurried and incorrect advice given.
Self-measuring guides are therefore available. These generally involve measuring the circumference of the torso under the breasts to obtain a torso measurement, followed by taking a measurement across the breasts at the largest point, i.e. across the nipples in an xe2x80x98over-bustxe2x80x99 measurement. Then, these measurements are put into a formula to work out a nominal torso and bra cup size. The bra cup size is related to torso size and also to the difference between torso size and over-bust measurement. In other words, the difference between torso size and over-bust measurement imputes a cup size for a given torso size. However, the product of the formula is only as good as the measurements that are put into the formula, and unfortunately those measurements are often inaccurate.
For example, as noted above, a certain level of expertise is required to achieve any degree of accuracy; one could hardly expect an inexpert woman, usually working on her own, to match the accuracy of measurement of an experienced bra-fitter. In particular, it is difficult to be sure that a measuring tape is held at an appropriate tension and in the correct position, which is especially difficult to ascertain across the back, either with or without the aid of a mirror. Also, the cross-nipple or over-bust measurement introduces an inherent inaccuracy because it does not take proper account of the effect of the varying depth and width of the cleavage between the breasts. The measuring tape bridges the cleavage rather than following the contour, and so cannot accurately tell if a particular apparent breast size is due to the degree of separation and protrusion of the breasts rather than the overall breast size.
Furthermore, the final measurement will be dependent on the type of bra being worn, it being noted that measurement often takes place while wearing a bra and that different bras impose different shapes upon the breasts that they support. A particular source of inaccuracy arises where the bra is designed to flatten the breast or maximise cleavage because such distortion of the breasts gives a misleading over-bust measurement. In general, there is a tendency to overestimate torso size and to underestimate over-bust measurement: as cup size is imputed from the difference between those measurements and with regard to the torso size, the combination or sum of errors in these critical measurements magnifies errors in apparent cup size.
Consequently, many women wear ill-fitting bras that are uncomfortable and provide insufficient support, which has adverse effects on posture and shape in later years. The correct fitting of a bra is especially important while breasts are developing during the teenage years and incorrect fitting during this time can lead to complications in later years.
The problems outlined above have been recognised for some years and various attempts have been made to invent devices to overcome these problems. For example, GB 2201579 (Sutherland) describes a measurement and fitting harness set for determining cup size and (optionally) other sizes or fittings for a production line or made-to-order bra. The harness has two breast-receiving cups, adjustable body and neck support straps and adjustable spacing between the cups. It is provided that at least one cup should differ in size by a predetermined measurement from other cups of other pairs. The unit size of the cups is based on units of maximum width at the widest part of the breast-receiving cup, providing a series of discrete sizes.
The user is provided with a set of eight harnesses for self-measurement whereby the correct cup size is selected by trial, i.e. the measuring technique described is akin to trying on a range of sizes in a retail outlet. An advantage of the measuring device described is that the breasts are measured in a supported state. However, since the sizing of the cups is dictated by the sizing provided by the harness, this does not provide an accurate measurement of breast size or overcome the problem of non-uniformity between the sizes of different makes and styles of bras. Therefore, the measurement obtained from the device may only be used to provide a rough estimate of size around which the consumer should look for an appropriately fitting bra. It follows that the consumer must still go through the process of trial and error to find a bra that fits correctly.
It is also apparent that the harness set of GB 2201579 is very complex to manufacture and to use, and would be prohibitively expensive for occasional or one-off use.
GB 1468762, also in the name of Sutherland, describes a harness for ascertaining torso and strap measurements as well as the separation between the two breasts. The cup size is fixed and specified by the user so that a suitable harness can be supplied. Measurement indicia are provided by a series of numbered books and eyes or interlocking slotted tape measures.
In order, for example, to measure accurately the length of shoulder strap required, the user must fiddle with small books and eyes behind her back. Unless the numerical indicia are sufficiently large, it can fairly be assumed that the scale is not readily visible and that it would be difficult to obtain an accurate measurement without much fiddling and possibly the help of a second person.
FR 2520999 to Dessapt describes a device for determining breast volume for patients requiring prosthesis or surgical enlargement. The device allows the surgeon to obtain accurate information on the required volume before carrying out surgery, and enables the patient to appreciate the likely result beforehand, as well as participating in the decision regarding size. The device includes cups of differing volumes, which can be interchangeably attached to the same harness.
The measurement provided by this device is a volumetric measurement which provides information on how much material is required to fill a selected volume, rather than how best to support the volume.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,485,855 (Shiraiwa) describes a measuring device for measuring breast shape. Measurements are taken from the base of the breast to the nipple, and the horizontal width of the breast across the nipple, by means of two tape measures mounted on a curved base member which is located underneath the breast in use. The sum of the values provided by the two tape measures can be used to select an appropriate cup size and shape. The device is also designed so that it can be mailed to the user, as well as for use in shops.
A major drawback with this device is that the breast is measured in the unsupported shape which, as outlined above, is far from ideal.
Even if a breast is supported during measurement, the way in which the breast is supported can introduce substantial inaccuracies. A prime example of this problem is evident from GB 2044470 which discloses calibrated receptacles for measuring breast volume. The receptacles are formed by bending or rolling flat sheets of clear plastics and two receptacle shapes are suggested, one being rolled from a circular sheet to form a cone-shaped receptacle and the other being rolled from an oblong sheet to form a tubular receptacle. The user then forces her breast into the receptacle while holding the receptacle against its own resilience to prevent it unfurling back into a flat sheet. The volume of the breast within the receptacle is read off by measuring the circumference of the base of the cone or, in the oblong-sheet tubular embodiment, by measuring the position of a piston within the tube.
The main problem in prior art such as GB 2044470 is that the user has to force her breast into the receptacle to cram the breast into every corner of the receptacle, this being the only way of filling the receptacle to measure breast volume. The oblong-sheet tubular embodiment even requires the user to press the piston into the end of the tube against the front of the breast. So, the circular-sheet, conical embodiment measures the volume of a conical, highly-compressed breast whereas the oblong-sheet, tubular embodiment measures the volume of a flat-fronted cylindrical highly-compressed breast. Such is the degree of compression necessary to contort the breast into the receptacle that the volume of the breast reduces to an extent that completely undermines its purported volumetric measurement.
Another problem of prior art such as GB 2044470 is that the edge of the receptacle closest to the user""s torso in use is planar. So, the receptacle does not fit snugly against the curvature of the user""s torso around the breast unless it is pressed uncomfortably into the user""s flesh
Finally, U.S. Pat. No. 4,454,409 (Sehres) discloses a bra-size calculator whose aim is to provide a convenient means for calculating bra and bra cup sizes based on measurements typically used by professional bra-fitters. This document is interesting largely to illustrate that the complexity of self-measurement has created the need for such a device, and for its more detailed discussion of existing professional bra-fitting techniques. There is also a particularly revealing tale in the introduction concerning two hundred women who thought that they were bra size 34B, but only two of whom when measured actually turned out to be that size.
Nevertheless, the bra-size calculator of U.S. Pat. No. 4,454,409 does nothing to facilitate accurate measurement and so suffers the problem of all non-intelligent calculating or computing devices, colloquially referred to as xe2x80x98garbage in, garbage outxe2x80x99: a bra-size calculator provided with the wrong measurements will unerringly produce the wrong bra fitting. Even if, against all odds, a user accurately makes all three measurements required by the calculator, enters those measurements correctly and then uses the calculator properly to produce a nominally correct result, fundamental problems remain. These are that the measurements themselves are not taken directly from the breastxe2x80x94breast size is merely inferred from other measurementsxe2x80x94and there is no guarantee that a nominally matching bra will actually match the measured bra size.
It is against this background that the present invention has been made. The invention aims to provide an accurate measurement of breasts and bras which facilitates the selection of the correct bra size and style to suit an individual""s requirements. Put simply, an objective of the invention is to recommend to a user a range of bras that will fit, not a range of bras of a given nominal size that may or may not fit.
From one aspect, the invention resides in a bra measuring apparatus for measuring a bra as herein defined, the apparatus comprising support means for supporting a bra, at least one bladder expandable under internal fluid pressure within a cup of a bra thus supported, and measurement means for measuring the volume and/or pressure of the fluid within the bladder when the cup of the bra has been filled.
The support means is suitably shaped to emulate a torso and can be divided into segments so that adjustment means can adjust separation between the segments and hence the girth of the artificial torso. First and second bladders are preferably situated on respective segments, the or each bladder is shaped to emulate a breast, and the or each bladder is interchangeable with bladders of different sizes and/or shapes.
The measurement means preferably includes a volumetric scale adapted to measure the volume of fluid delivered to the or each bladder and may also include a pressure sensor in communication with the or each bladder. A detector associated with this pressure sensor can detect a discontinuity in pressure rise when the cup of the bra is filled by the bladder, whereupon means associated with the detector suitably stops expansion of the bladder.
Surface pressure sensors can be associated with the support means, and stress sensors can be associated with the bra.
The corresponding bra measuring method comprises supporting a bra, expanding a bladder under internal fluid pressure until a cup of the bra thus supported has been filled, and measuring the volume and/or pressure of the fluid within the bladder that fills the cup. This method advantageously further comprises observing fit on a support means supporting the bra, for example by observing deflection of a support surface of the support means and/or by observing any gap between the cup and the support means.
A plurality of nominally identical bras can be measured to determine manufacturing tolerance, this method suitably comprising selecting a random sample of bras from a bra production facility, measuring the bras of that sample, and feeding back tolerance information to that facility.
In a related aspect, the invention resides in a method of buying or selling bras as herein defined. The method comprises establishing a database of bras containing bra characteristic data including bra size and bra cup size measured from a sample of actual bras; measuring a wearer""s breast and torso size to obtain wearer characteristic data; searching the database to find bra characteristic data within the database matching the wearer characteristic data, and listing for selection by the wearer any bras in the database whose characteristics match the wearer characteristic data.
The bra characteristic data preferably includes bra cup shape data, in which case the method further comprises measuring a wearer""s breast shape and including the wearer""s breast shape in the wearer characteristic data. For a consistent, repeatable and objective assessment of size and fit, it is preferred that the bra cup size and wearer breast size are measured volumetrically and moreover that the volumetric measurement of the wearer breast size is performed when the breast is in a supported shape.
To cater for wearer preference, the bra characteristic data advantageously includes bra type and/or bra features data, and the method further comprises including wearer preference data as to bra type and/or bra features in the wearer characteristic data
This aspect of the invention extends to a system for buying or selling bras as herein defined, the system comprising a database of bras containing bra characteristic data including bra size and bra cup size measured from a sample of actual bras; measuring means for measuring a wearer""s breast and torso size to obtain wearer characteristic data; search means for searching the database to find bra characteristic data within the database matching the wearer characteristic data, and selection means for listing for selection by the wearer any available bras in the database that match the wearer characteristic data.
The flexibility of this system lends itself to use in retail outlets as well as the selection of bras by mail order and the Internet. Indeed, the invention may be the key to wider public acceptance of bra shopping via mail order or the Internet.
A breast measuring method that can be employed in conjunction with the invention comprises applying a receptacle of known volume to a breast to determine the volume of the breast when the breast is comfortably fitted within and supported by the receptacle. The breast measuring method suitably comprises applying a plurality of receptacles in turn to a breast, the receptacles being of different volumes and/or shapes and selecting from that plurality the receptacle giving the most comfortable supporting fit to the breast received within.
Fit may be identified by observing the breast through the receptacle, to which end the receptacle is preferably somewhat transparent, translucent or otherwise see-through.
The method can be performed first on one breast and then on the other breast, or on both breasts simultaneously. In the latter case, two receptacles can be linked and applied together to the respective breasts, and torso girth can be measured by passing a tape or strap around the torso and reading a girth measurement from indicia on the tape or strap situated at the front or side of the torso. For accurate and consistent measurement, a predetermined tensile load is preferably applied to the tape or strap before reading the girth measurement.
The breast measuring method can be effected by using a breast measuring apparatus comprising a receptacle of known volume applicable to a breast to check for comfortable fit and to determine the volume of the breast comfortably fitted within the receptacle, the receptacle emulating the shape of a supported breast and being sufficiently rigid to support the breast in the shape of the receptacle.
The user is preferably provided with a set of such receptacles of different volumes and/or shapes, each receptacle of the set including indicia indicating its volume and/or shape. As aforesaid, a pair of receptacles can be linked to emulate a bra, in which case a torso strap and optionally also shoulder straps can be provided.
The invention may also be used in conjunction with a measuring strap or tape for use around a user""s torso, the strap or tape comprising a tension-indicating means having first and second portions that are linked by a resilient bias means for relative movement when the strap or tape is under longitudinal tension, wherein the resilient bias means acts against the longitudinal tension and the portions include co-operable indicia that are brought into mutual alignment by said relative movement at a predetermined longitudinal tension.
Conveniently, the first and second portions are strap or tape portions that define a mutual longitudinal axis and are disposed generally end to end along that axis, and the first and second portions overlap in the region of the indicia The first portion can include a window or cut-out and the second portion can include an indicator aligned with and visible through that window or cutout when the strap or tape is at the predetermined longitudinal tension. The indicator is preferably at least partially hidden by the first portion when the strap or tape is not at the predetermined longitudinal tension.
The strap or tape can be used in a method of measuring the girth of a torso or other compressible body, comprising passing the measuring tape or strap around the body, applying a predetermined tension to the tape or strap by reading a tension indicator associated therewith, and measuring the girth of the body while maintaining said predetermined tension. The predetermined tension can be maintained by fastening the tape or strap to itself or to another structure.